Kochi: Land of the Coconut

Final notes on Kochi, as we have moved on the Chennai, India's 3rd largest city, this morning. The last couple of days we had some incredible experiences in this (relatively) peaceful coastal paradise. See this FLICKR batch of photos to follow the brief notes below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I5nnatVlBBA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfjXvBy0ZNM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTQmmoxKszI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMxHaFBbXi0
FLICKR URL:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/39413808@N05/sets/72157621592546562/
Actually, the first four are links to very short clips on Youtube I recently uploaded. Back to Kochi...
CHINESE FISHING NETS: We took a field trip to see the Chinese fishing nets, which are one of the most common photos one sees of this area. The Chinese came to Kerala in the 14th century for trade and left behind enormouse fishing nets that are still used today. They are used from a dock on a pulley system that consists of ropes and rocks. I have a short video of me getting a chance to heave-ho, and when I get a minute to post it, I'll include the link in my next posting.

KATHAKALI DANCING: Kathakali means "story-play" and with painted faces and vivid costumes, characters depict Indian epic stories accompanied with a percussionist and a singer. We witnessed their slow, silent 1.5 hour of make up preparation, where they slowly metamorphisized to larger-than-life characters. I have some great video footage of the climax of the short scene we saw (the REAL Kathakali lasts all evening from 4 p.m. until 7 a.m. THE NEXT DAY!), and I'll post that as well as time allows. It was somewhat like Kabuki, somewhat like Balinese dancers, and actually its own uniquely moving experience.

MONSOONS: At the open air market, the sky opened on us with a swift sheet of rain. Luckily we were in the tarp covered fish market, but the roof quickly filled, swayed, and dumped its contents squarely on our heads. We took refuge under a less than perfect roof at the entrace, where many men (professional porch sitters without the porch, it seemed to me) sat in their regional colored dhoti (think man skirt) and found us a most amusing way to pass the time until the rain lightened enough to walk in it. The drainage system, if there is one you could construct for such a downpour, is woefully inadequate, and nature's wet call is sure, swift, and sustained.

SPICES: The spices that enticed Vasco de Gama several hundred years ago called my name as we walked through the streets. I bought about 4 ounces of pepper for about a dollar, which, if any of you have bought pepper in the States lately, is just too cheap to take seriously. They should charge you to smell as you walk down the street, seriously.

KERALA LIFE STYLE: There are things to learn from this part of India on how to live the good life. Yoga, and ayurveda have their roots in this part of India, and their life expectancy is literally off the charts. In fact, their demographers had to create a new term to deal with the fact that so many of their old population was outside the norm of the rest of India. (They arrived at young-old (50-65) and Old-old (65-up).) Researchers attribute this increased life expectancy to 3 factors: 1. manual labor as a youth (does detassling count?), 2. pure vegetarian diet, and 3. good prompt medical care. I say they are to be commended and studied.
As we moved into the new Taj (this one in Chennai called the Taj Connemara, perhaps the most posh Taj yet) I thought of some things I'm quickly becoming accustomed to. Here's a few...

1. crazy traffic and the challenge of crossing the street without lights, pauses in traffic, or any regard at all for the pedestrian.
2. yogurt at every meal, along with the holy trinity of tropical fruits: the mango, the pineapple, and the coconut
3. posh accomodations, including being called by name by hotel staff (although it's a little reminscent of The Graduate), attendants carrying umbrellas over your head as you saunter from the hotel to the upscale private bus, garlands of flowers, fresh juice and a greeting posse when we arrive, and a minimum of 20 choices of yummy food to eat at each breakfast and lunch. It's been tough, but I find I'm adjusting!

For today's Hindu deity, we turn to Hanuman, also known as the monkey king. He has super powers of being able to expand to the size of a mountain or shrink himself to the size of a fly, which proved quite useful when he helped his BFF, Lord Rama during his great battle with Lord Ravana, as chronicled in the epic Ramayana. In addition to being strong and clever (he once had to carry an entire mountain to an ailing friend because he was unsure which herbs would heal him best), he is also a loyal and faithful friend. On top of that, he may be the cutest Hindu deity of all with the head of a monkey and a muscular human body!